Thursday, August 25, 2011

Sufi Dervish Ceremony

Nothing can dispel cultural ignorance better that direct experience. Tonight we went to a Sufi Dervish ceremony and witnessed first-hand the depth of their belief system. Truthfully I did not know what to expect. The Sufi building was not an imposing sight. It was tucked away behind some apartment buildings and was not fashioned like any of the religious buildings I have toured so far. Once I entered though, I realized that a dedicated congregation assembled inside. The walls were beautifully decorated, chairs were arranged just so along the walls, and worshippers were reverently solemn.



Listening to the sing-song chant of their prayers had an enchanting effect. I heard the rhythmic drums beating in tune with the forlorn Turkish flute. The music alone was enough to enrapture my imagination. And then came the whirling Dervish dancers. In full length robes, they majestically took the floor one steady rhythmic step at a time.



In truth I was completely overwhelmed by the performance these talented dancers gave. Each Dervish expressed ethereal fluidity of motion. Their long skirts rippled in the air effortlessly creating an explosion of movement and color.




Not only must each Dervish whirl continually but also be able to move across the room in time to the rhythm. Every pace of their feet is timed and intentional. The talent and training necessary to attain such mastery is astounding.

Throughout the ceremony, there was a distinct feeling of intense concentration. I felt the rush of moving air stirred by the Dervishes and heard the plaintive melody weave in amongst the dancers as if it were in control of their movement. Sufism is based on mystical properties pertaining to the Islamic faith. After tonight's experience, I feel much more informed as to their perception of God and worship. Taking the opportunity to travel and understand a foreign culture is truly a growing experience unattainable by any other means.


2 comments:

  1. A few notes on this one: In the photo that shows the dervishes whirling, the ones with the colored clothing are women, and the ones with the white clothing are men. It is somewhat unusual to have both women and men together for this ceremony. Also, in the top photo you can see a man standing to the left. He is Dervish Erol, and is the one we have mentioned before in the posts on ebru. He will be meeting with us to explain the symbolism of everything we saw and to answer any of the students' questions. Finally, in the top photo there are three pictures hanging on the wall in the front of the mevlevihane (the name for the building where a sema is held). Two are, I believe, masters of this tradition who are the spiritual descendants of this community. The third, on the left, is Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the father of the Turkish Republic. Ataturk's picture is everywhere in Turkey. More on that later.

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